By Kathleen Walls
Macon, Georgia calls itself “The Song and Soul of the South.” It is the home of the King of Soul, Otis Redding, one of Rock and Roll’s original architects, Little Richard, and the birthplace of Southern Rock. It’s noted for its “Cherry Blossoms and White Columns” and is a fascinating city with its music and history–make that pre-history. Indoor or outdoor person, history buff or music lover, there is something for every taste in Macon.
Where to stay:
The 1842 Inn is a bed and breakfast with a history. Breakfast served in your room, on the patio, or in the dining room is fantastic. My choice every time is the Strawberry French Toast.
Food and Drink:
Oliver’s:
Oliver’s has fresh food done in its unique style. I had the day’s special, a steak quesadilla with an interesting sauce that was delicious. For an appetizer, try the sweet potato fries with a blue cheese topping.
The Rookery
The Rookery is known for the best burgers in Macon. It was a hangout of the Allman Brothers and had a burger named for them, The Allman Burger. Lots of outer music legends have food named for them; The Big “O” named after Otis Redding, Patty Melt AKA Little Richard Pennimelt, Jerry Reed Burger, and Ray Charles Burger are some of them. Getting away from music, there is a Jimmy Carter Burger.
Piedmont Brewery & Kitchen
Just because it’s a brewpub don’t think the food isn’t great. I had the wings and they were tops. Their lemon cheesecake was the perfect dessert. Naturally they have a lot of craft beers.
Tic Toc Room where Little Richard once worked as a dishwasher and sang inbetween, was damaged by fire and is now closed but working to reopen soon.
To See and Do:
Downtown Visitor Information Center
This is a good place to start your tour. They have maps and brochures and you can watch a 10-minute intro video to Macon. There is free parking on the side street.
Historic sites:
Ocmulgee Mounds:
Ocmulgee Mounds is shrouded in mystery and takes you back to Macon’s pre-historic times. An ancient Mississippian tribe built the earthen mounds around 900AD. They took this land from an earlier tribe and began a farming culture on the banks of the Ocmulgee River. There are seven mounds. The tallest is the 55-foot Great Temple Mound. The most interesting to me is a reconstructed earth lodge council chamber. The original floor is still in place. Can’t you imagine the chieftains sitting in a circle facing their symbolic bird effigy (not the middle finger bird) and arguing about which laws to pass and which to ignore? I’m not sure if they had two political parties then or not.
I took a candlelight tour of the mounds once and I could almost feel the presence of these ancient people still here as I toured their sacred mounds. On a daylight tour, you can see more. Climbing to the top of the Temple Mound is breathtaking, literally so wear comfortable shoes.
Hay House:
We think some of the new energy-efficient homes built today are top of the line but Hay House had air conditioning of a sort back in the 1800s. It also had hot and cold running water before the White House did. It belonged to one of Macon’s wealthiest citizens William Johnston. Johnston made his fortune in insurance, real estate, and banking. The house is furnished with noi expenses spared. During the Civil War Battle of Dunlap Hill, Union cannoneers targeted his home because of his ties to the Confederacy. They missed however.
Cannonball House:
Where that cannonball did strike, was Judge Asa Holt’s home, known as The Cannonball House. Today, the cannonball is still in place. You can see it when you tour the home. While there, step out back and visit the original brick servants’ quarters and kitchen.
Tubman Museum:
In 2015, the Tubman Museum moved into its new 49,000 square foot facilities making it the largest museum in the Southeast dedicated to preserving and sharing the story of African American history, culture, and art. There are many of Macon’s musical greats such as Otis Redding, James Brown, and Little Richard. You will learn a lot here and enjoy doing it. I never knew blind singer-guitar player Rev. Pearly Brown was the first Black musician to perform at the Grand Ole Opry. . He also performed at Carnegie Hall.
Georgia Sports Hall of Fame
This is another biggie dedicated to history of a different sort. It’s the largest state sports museum in the country. I like that it’s an interactive museum so you participate not just view many of the exhibits. My favorite is Bill Elliott’s NASCAR car on the second floor.
Music Sites:
Rock Candy Tour:
For music lovers, take the Rock Candy Tour and ask for Rex Dooley as your guide. Rock Candy Tours is co-owned by Jessica Walden. She is the daughter of Alan Walden and niece of Phil Waldon, both inductees in the Georgia Music Hall of Fame and co-owners of the original Capricorn Records. She knows her music. The tour will take you to all of the spots related to music around Macon, including the three following places. Rex is so knowledgeable and seems to know lots of the local musicians as well as all his music facts.
Otis Redding Foundation:
His family founded the foundation in memory of Otis Redding. They provide help for underprivileged children through music. There is a small museum at the headquarters to preserves the history of the King of Soul, Otis Redding. His statue still sits by the dock of the bay, actually by the banks of the Ocmulgee River.
Douglass Theater:
Charles Douglass was a Black man ahead of his time. He built a theater for African-American here in 1911. The Douglass Theater showed short films and featured traveling vaudeville performers. Among those who performed on its stage were some of the biggest African American musicians ever. Douglass Theatre closed in 1972 and reopened in 1997 after a more than three-million-dollar renovation. The Walk of Fame in front recognizes Georgia’s musical legends with their own star. You’ll find Ma Rainey, Little Richard, Duke Ellington, Otis Redding, James Brown, and more.
Macon’s Grand Opera House:
Known as “The Grand Lady of Mulberry,” the opera house was built in 1884. Once the largest stage south of the Mason-Dixon Line, it fell into disrepair and was almost destroyed. Music lovers rescued it and restored the building to its beautiful former self. Today, it showcases concerts, not opera.
The Big House:
The Allman Brothers Band blended a unique mix of Country, Jazz, and Blues with traditional Rock and Roll and created a new genre, Southern Rock. The Big House was their home from 1970 to 1973 while they were creating this music. Now, it is one of Macon’s newer museums. The three-story twin-gabled house is more than a museum; it’s the birthplace of Southern Rock. A painting of the band hangs next to their many gold records. The house is filled with the band’s instruments and clothing. There are even notes where members composed many of their songs. Since The Allman Brothers Band helped elect Jimmy Carter, there are letters and information about him there also.
Mercer Music at Capricorn
Capricorn Studio where Southern Rock was first recorded has long been a deserted shrine to music lovers. Today, thanks to Mercer College, it is reborn. There is a small museum on the second floor. Downstairs, you can tour their working studio. Mercer Music at Capricorn director, Bob Conrad, showed us the new studio. He told us, “We built this studio in 2019. We’re still a very active recording studio.”
Then he led us across the lobby and showed us the original studio where so many famous musicians recorded in the 1970s. It was the musical home for the Allman Brothers Band, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Wet Willie, James Brown, Marshal Tucker Band, Charlie Daniels, and others. You can feel the old vibes there. Bob said, “Everything here, except the instruments, is original.”
Outdoor Fun:
Lake Tobesofkee Recreation Area offers three parks and 1800 acres of fresh water fun. Here’s where you do your fishing, boating, picnicking, swimming, and even tennis. If you want to camp, two of the parks, Arrowhead and Claystone are ready to accommodate. The beach is beautiful and sandy. The campgrounds are ready for anything from a tent to a big RV. There are complete hookups and a Laundromat.
All photos by Kathleen Walls
